Men's military fashion trend 2010F

The 1980s fashion revival is coming to a close. But the revival on earlier periods, particularly from the 1930s and 1940s, remains popular. So what to do then with the military fashion trend which has proved the stalwart of fashionisers' wardrobes for the past 2 years? Evolve it. Play down the over-the-top glam pieces taken directly from the 80s, and infuse the historical military look with something far more classic, far more relevant to 2010 / 2011 fashion. Introducing the Autumn (Fall) / Winter 2010 evolution of the men's military clothing trend.

For King and Country

The men's military fashion trend is nothing new to us. Revived in 2008/2009 as part of a larger 1980s revival it had, to date, the flamboyant style popularised by the likes of Adam Ant. Not so forAutumn (Fall) / 2010. Ant, in turn, had taken his inspiration from a time when the European superpowers were at their peak, and military uniforms were less about functionality and more about how grand your country was.

The 1980s fashion revival is, however, on the wane. A new decade calls for a new swatch, and the focus on subtlety and quality that I hope will shape the next decade of men's fashion will see the men's military trend evolve in 2010 to be far more articulate.

So if the inspiration no longer comes from the 1980s, then when? The Second World War. An era of rationing, clean cuts, functionality, and, of course, the dapper gentleman off to fight for King and Country.

Key Pieces

If you intend to indulge in the 2010 / 2011 interpretation of the men's military fashion trend there are two key pieces you'll need:

1. A greatcoat. Colour choices here sit strongest with Army green and Navy / Air Force navy hues. The greatcoat can be single or double-breasted, and should be detailed with brass buttons. For genuine authenticity, find some antique buttons on eBay and pull out a needle and thread, or simply purchase a vintage piece and have the cut altered accordingly. Further, the greatcoat can be belted or unbelted: it needs only to have a fitted waist.


2. Aviator boots with shearling

It's worth nothing that shearling can also be applied to the collar of a greatcoat or an aviator jacket, particularly if you're trending towards the fighter ace look. Be cautious about moving into the realm of costuming however: being on trend doesn't translate to looking like you're off to a fancy dress party dressed as the Red Baron.

For more styling tips and pictures, view the gallery at the bottom of this trend report.

Other Trends To Wear It With

One of the great things about this trend is that it is made to be functional; after all, it comes from a era when people could frequently be heard to say "there's a war on!" Thus the trend can be worn with many a toned down piece, particularly darker colours. As an example, in the trouser department look for solid coloured pants or darker denim. For a touch of flair, look for shiny trousers.

For greatest effect be sure to turn to either of the key 2010 men's hairstyles: the classic part or the fringe. While the fringe adds a very youthful quality to the look, I'd recommend choosing between the two based solely on what suits your facial shape and hair.

Who Designed It / Where To Buy It

On the Autumn / Fall 2010 catwalks there is one designer who reigned supreme when it came to this new interpretation of the men's military fashion trend: Christopher Bailey. His work for theBurberry Autumn (Fall) 2010 catwalk was second to none.

New pieces aside, don't forget that the Second World War was almost in the middle of the last century. Therefore, it's not all that hard to find vintage pieces from that era to infuse into your wardrobe.

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Prabal Gurung Talks Collaborating With Zoe Saldana, Avoiding Marc Jacobs, and the Red Carpet Race

>> Prabal Gurung went dressed as Marc Jacobs — complete with tattoos, stubble, kilt, and combat boots — to The Standard's Halloween party this past weekend, but as Gurung told us yesterday in San Francisco where he was holding a trunk show atNeiman Marcus’s Union Square location, he avoided Jacobs seeing his costume: "So I was [at The Standard], and I met some of [Jacobs's] friends, and they said, 'Come meet Marc!' As I was taking my steps toward him, I thought, what if he hates it? I’ll be mortified, so I just said, 'No way.'" Gurung continued: "I was so petrified. I saw him the next day at the Women’s Wear Daily event, and I just tried to avoid him! I just didn’t know how he would react to it . . . I hope he liked it!" 

So we had to ask: Zoe Saldana has mentioned that she would love to do a collaboration with you . . .

I can’t talk about it right now. I mean, I would love to. Zoe is one of my dearest friends; I’ve known her for almost eight years now, before Avatar or anything happened, and we’ve always talked about doing something. The collaboration we would do is going to be a collaboration that benefits something. Whatever little attention I’m getting, and whatever crazy attention she’s getting, when we combine forces, it has to be not just for economics; it has to be for something better — that’s our goal. She’s shooting right now, and I’m travelling, so we talk a lot. We’re supposed to talk on the phone today, so we’ll see. We’ll keep you posted.

So you guys are definitely talking about it?

Yeah, we are talking about it, but it’s not something like “Oh, we want to do shoes.” It’s more like, "How can we do something that seems authentic?” Because there are so many collaborations out there, and I think the customers are just inundated with that. What is it that is going to be true to me, true to her, true to you guys? Why would you want to buy it? It need to be honest, I feel. Right now, I would give you a direction of where it’s going, but there is nothing yet . . . we just don’t know yet.

Speaking of collaborations, you worked with Nicholas Kirkwood on shoes this past season. Do you plan to continue that or would you do your own accessories anytime soon?

Right now, we're going ahead with Nicholas for the next season also. [Spring 2011] was the first time we did it, and it’s been received so crazily, so amazingly well . . . so we both are very happy. Down the line, definitely — it won’t be like next season that I’m launching my own shoe collection — but definitely in the near future, I will be launching shoes and handbags.

Nice! Do you already have any sketches in the making?

If you knew a little bit about me, all this stuff, with Fall 2009 as my collection's launch . . .  About 15 years ago, I had written in my diary — and I’m not kidding — that I wanted to do something then. So I’m a little bit of a planner — not like an OCD planner — but I just like to write down thoughts and ideas. I’m also very open to the idea that I might change them, but I always like to plan stuff.

While we're on the topic, are you interested in any other type of collaboration?

You know, with collaborations and everything, the goal is this: I’m not interested in just being a flash in the pan. I’m interested in the longevity of my career. For me, I’m at point A; I have to go to point Z. It’s a long process, but I’m extremely patient. I want to build a lifestyle brand that has longevity. In 20 years, when I look back, maybe in 20 years we can sit down and talk about it again. I’m not interested in trends, or being cool, or anything. It’s more about timeless but relevant clothes that have a place on the runway, in editorial magazines, as well as in someone’s wardrobe. I’m making clothes for women to wear, not costumes.

Awards season is just a couple of months away, are you looking into entering the red carpet race?

This is what I say: I never get into the red carpet race. We make ourselves available, and if an actress or stylist feels it is the right partnership, I’m always open to it, always. It is important for branding purposes to get your name out there, but what I don’t believe in is the cutthroat kind of thing. If it’s going to happen, it’ll happen. You just have to make yourself available, and that’s what it is.

Who are some of the actresses that come to you a lot?

I met Demi Moore through Rachel Zoe, and she has been the biggest supporter of mine. I always say she’s my fairy godmother, and then there's Zoe Saldana, Carey Mulligan, and Leighton Meester. We've always dressed Thandie Newton, who I love. All the women that I’ve dressed are very intelligent, smart women, beautiful — no doubt about it. But when you sit down and talk to them, they’re not giddy . . . they’ll talk sense to you. That’s what I enjoy about dressing them.

Is there anyone that you haven’t dressed that you would love to dress one day?

There are a few. I love Cate Blanchett, Tilda Swinton, Gwyneth Paltrow, Natalie Portman, Rebecca Hall, and Julianne Moore. The girls I’ve named have some kind of substance to them — they’re unique, they love fashion, but they’re also extremely talented and very good at their craft. Without fashion, they could still survive. I would also love to dress some politicians, and their wives.

Well you’ve already dressed a good one — Michelle Obama!

Yes, she’s been the biggest champion. She is truly a godsend.

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Zara young men's collection for A/W '10

As the northern fashioniser experiences autumn / fall 2010's steady march towards winter 2011. fashion houses and the high street stores alike are releasing heavier pieces as a part of new collections. Amongst them is Zara, whose new young men's collection is due in store this month.

Drawing largely from a black and white colour palette (meaning the one American prep look certainly sticks out), you can see the entire look book by clicking on the thumbnails below.

Related Pictures: Zara: Young men's look book November 2010

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Topman CTRL talks to The Charlatans front man; Tim Burgess...

As we approach the night where Salford Lads Club take charge of CTRL, we thought we should ask local expert and Salford insider Tim Burgess a few intimate questions. Get to know Mr Burgess below...!

 

Q. How does it feel to be celebrating the band’s 20^th anniversary, did you always think you’d make it this far?

A. I Never thought we would make it 20 years no not at all, there were signs we might after 16 but til then never gave it a thought…in the early days it was obvious we were special but we were scratching around, scurrying about trying to survive the night

Q. Tell us about the new album?

A. The new album is very Zen!

Q. Do you have a favourite Charlatans song from over the years?

A. Fav Charlatans tracks are BIRD/Tellin Stories/Sproston Green/Senses though there are a few (at least 10) golden nuggets missing.

Q. How do you see the music scene there now?

A. I really like a handful of bands from Manc but I don’t feel there is a scene as such.

Q. How is living out in LA? Do you miss anything about the UK?

A. I always miss LA when I am in UK and I miss UK when I am in LA x it’s a hard life.

Q. You worked with Joaquin Phoenix on his rap stuff, did your work together make it on to the new film? What do you make his rap career?

A. I worked with Joaquin on Anthony langdon’s record (he is in the film) after 2 weeks work we kinda went our separate ways. I later heard through the grapevine that my backing vocals that I did on Ant’s record ended up on Joaquin’s rap record.But I have yet to hear it. The film btw is a masterpiece.

Q. You’re originally from Salford, how was it as a place to grow up?

A. Salford was an awesome place to grow up I fell off my bike a lot got in a few junior punch ups learned to swim in Eccles watched my Dad play rugby for Sedgley Park and met the Stuart Hall

Q. Were you aware of Salford Lad’s club before getting involved, how?

A. I wasn’t aware of the Salford Lads Club until the Smiths photo.

Q. Do you have a favourite musical experience or album from when you were growing up?

A. Bay city rollers / Slade were the soundtrack to my junior school. Punk was the soundtrack to my secondary school years. New order were the soundtrack to my late teens, I also got into northern soul and 60’s freakbeat late teens early 20’s

Q. Talk us though the line up you’ve picked for the CTRL gig?

A. The line up for CTRL is made up of all my favourite artists it is a huge pleasure to put this gig on and get to have all my favourite people in the same room.

Q. What should people expect from a Tim Burgess DJ set?

A. I am not sure yet what to spin in my dj set! Either northern soul or punk/post punk.

Q. Could you give us a top five tracks of the year to date?

A. Top five tracks of the year - Toro y moi – Blessa / Ariel pink – Menopause Man / Tame impaler - Alter Ego / Factory Floor Lying (Stephen morris mix) / The Charlatans - My Foolish Pride (The Horrors remix)  

Q. CTRL is about music and fashion, what’s been your biggest fashion hit and miss over the years?

A. My worst fashion statement ….everything I wear is awesome to most and terrible to many I guess I am constantly in and out of fashion.

Q. Tell us something people might not know about you?

A. People might not know that I really like A Touch Of Frost (tv programme)

So...there a handful of tickets still left for tomorrows gig at The Ruby Lounge, head on over to www.topmanctrl.com for info on how to get some! See you there...

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The Autumn Winter 2010 Accessories Guide Part 1: Prologue

Introduction

There are a few things you learn in the most serendipitous and awkward of situations.

Taking more notice of the lessons you learn is like taking more notice of the women you pass; you begin to learn not to let them pass you. It pays dividends; both complexes are quite attractive. When you take modest note of the basic life lessons, the ordinary sort, you learn you can take on the wider picture, the wider complex or the wider woman in cases.

Few will deny their aspiration for a Harry Potter job title; it’s common accordance among the modern living. Plentiful seek charm in sipping a [take breath] Double Ristretto Venti non-fat organic frappuccino, extra hot with foam and whipped cream, upside down, double blended sort; fresh out of Starbucks.

However – like the lessons we learn – could it not be said that it belongs to these little details that skirt us around feeling blasé?

The given of Autumn and Winter will leave you a minute to none for being anything other than on trend. More than that, it leaves even lesser time to read up on what you should be wearing. These are the months of preparation for the season that allows little of; for once you have to have confidence in plain precipitation. The window of annoyance where writers like I throw incessant riddles at you in a self professed pernicious manner while you scream “tell me what the f*ck to wear” at the screen, has only just begun yet is about to close.

Accessory Coordination

The views of one man rarely -unless in heroic standing- survive the dawns of a decade. There was once a man in Germany who had a problem with this; some people just don’t have it in them.

The guided effort to harmonise clothes will never be lost. Be it harmonising as the first six letters intend or for it to be in an educated conflict or contrast with each other. Hardy Amies draws a stubborn, often snobbish line between coordination and harmony. Coordination should be an endeavour but should err towards transparency. When accessories come into play, this thoughtfulness should not be lost but appropriateness gained. You do not appropriate an umbrella in the broad of sunlight the same way to do not attend a wedding in your joggers (however drop crotched, cuffed hem or label splattered they may be).

Hardy Amies on Harmony:

Harmony in clothes, as in marriage, is a matter of adjustment. Each item in your costume should have a degree of sympathy with the others. This is not a matter of matching colours of patterns. Contrasting colours can harmonise much more effectively than matching ones by setting each other off. The opposite of harmony is conflict. You may not be gifted with the artistic eye for colour, but the simple way to avoid conflict is to see that no one item of clothing stands out by itself. If you can do that, you can achieve at least a basic harmony.

The Unlikely Essential: Braces

What is unlikely in life is often what is most cherished. A hair guised in your food is certainly not one of them but common sense would have nodded you to that conclusion anyway. If by pedalling the unlikely, am I making it become likely? It’s likely. However, there is the chance that my pedestal won’t be trusted by all if not knocked by a few.

My unlikely essential for AW10 is the brace. The American’s aptly name them ‘the suspender’ – the suspended wait at the urinal following the last sherbet and your inability to unhinge. Hardly the dapper image I wanted to begin painting.

Just as the hat serves and the brogues command a suit, the braces are – in brothel terms – the moneymaker. The overlooked lady in the corner who costs not so dearly yet offers more than others per-say. Concluding referencing items of clothing as tokens prostitution should end here, but I can see it being a persistent term.

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The Expected Essential: Scarves & Snoods

To be in avoidance of the expected is an all too common shortfall. It is of course a wise idea not to allow the distanced follower of fashion, the follower whose inspiration is ripped from the pages of a magazine or de-shelved from the window dressings, to offer you any tainted insight. However, I won’t catch a bus in the opposite direction just because everyone else is getting on the one I need. In fact, scratch that, I can’t trust buses not to smell like…



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Storage Tips: So easy, even we can do it Gents.

So you've bought the latest designer threads, and accessories and you're looking the business, but to continue looking that way, you really have to store them properly to keep them, and you looking at your best.



This is an area where a lot of men drastically fail, and with a bit of help, those expensive items can last for years if properly stored away in the off-season.



To start off, there are three important areas to remember when storing clothes: Clean, Protect and Organise.













Clean



Quite a simple thing to remember to do before you store your clothes away eh? Wrong.

So many men forget to do this before they put them into storage, it's unreal.



Clothes are extremely susceptible to bugs and mites, especially when dirty.

Remember, just because not all stains are visible, doesn't mean they're not there to haunt you when you pull your favourite cashmere sweater out of storage a few months later, only to find out its ruined, making it a very costly mistake to make.



Best bet is to wash them, or better still, dry-clean them before storage, even if you think they don't need it.



Protect



So you've taken the first step to making sure your garments are clean as a whistle before storage, but it doesn't stop there. Even clean garments need protection, and this comes in the form of wood.

Yep, you read it correctly, wood.



The most commonly effective form of wood to use to protect garments during storage is Cedar.



Cedar provides a fresh scent which that not only repels bugs and mites, but also absorbs abrasive odours from your laundry basket or that over-used gym bag. 



Cedar products are available in several forms for protecting your clothes, which include hang-ups for closets, blocks for drawers and containers and cedar hangers which can be used for coats and suits.



They're available from any good department store near you and the rubbish ones too.



Second in the laws of protection is the location of the storage.



Protection is best carried out in dark, cool, dry and well ventilated places.

Without these 4 conditions, clothes can become faded, damaged, mouldy, and musty, much like the smell associated with old people.



So, just be strategic in storing your garments in the proper places and with the proper protection to guarantee their longevity.



Organise



The final key to storing your clothes in the off-season is proper organisation, taking your clean clothes and your protective elements and applying them together.



Organisation doesn't just mainstream your wardrobe; it also adds extra protection by storing similar garments together.



For example, the storage of hanging items in natural cotton garment bags allows you to store similar items in the same area, but it also blocks light and provides a breathable barrier for clothes to maintain them in a safe, clean and easy to locate environment.



Don't forget about storage boxes though, as several of these add extra order and flexibility in storing items in locations such as under the bed and can also add structure to your wardrobe.



Just remember, organisation can add simplicity to life, so why not add it to your wardrobe?



Just taking into account the 3 simple steps of clean, protect and organise allows you to play the game of fashion more successfully, especially as you'll now stand out from the crowd in your well cared for garments, making the little time and effort put into the process a lot more rewarding.

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