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2010年3月31日 星期三

HOMME|FASHION| A Suitable Boy

Jonathan Heaf charts the evolution of the suit from workaday drudgery to everyday style.

The humble, honest, hard working-suit: man's armour, a shield of fabric and cloth; a guy's sartorial stalwart; a defence against early-morning wardrobe indecision; a protection against any tendency to dress like an off-duty cricketer; a wingman to protect against the inability to dress one's age. 

Topman suit
School, however, can mar the initial introduction to the suit. The uniform I had to wear between the ages of 12 and 18, a navy structured blazer twinned with a pair of gravel-rough charcoal trousers, left me thinking that all a suit achieved was iron out any hint of personality. When you're a kid, suits aren't cool or erudite, savvy or sharp. Suits are fusty. Suits are tired. 

Then you discover rock and roll. For me, it was watching The Strokes perform live at the Oxford Zodiac in 2002, the band's first ever live performance on British soil. Looking stage right, playing rhythm guitar, was the frizzy haired Albert Hammond Jr, a musician so sharp, so well-dressed, he looked like a poster boy for everything I ever wanted to be. And, you know what? He was wearing a suit. 

And that's how it starts. You head out the following weekend in a blazer, a skinny black tie, a narrow pair of strides, a pair of old Church'sbrogues. Before you can say 'throwback', you're ferreting among the second-hand shops under the arches in Camden, trying on bashed-up Paul Smith three-pieces from the 70s. Buying your first suit is a rite of passage: confidence-building and cathartic, to the extent that you promise yourself you'll never wear anything else ever again.
Burton suit
Today, the suit has never been more fashionable. Just look at someone like super-producer Mark Ronson. His music may be middle-of-the-road karaoke for the cool kids - but his sartorial choices are as sharp as a knife-edge. Of course, we aren't all maverick producers with a black Amex, and thankfully, the high street has finally come up trumps with a selection of cheap cheats for the dapper man about town. Where better to find them than in London, home of Savile Rowand Burton, who brought the off-the-peg suit to the post-war masses?

Head to Japanese favourite Uniqlo and you'll be able to pick up a great, two-button, two-piece suit for well under £100 (£69.98). For a bigger chunk of change you'll find great-looking suits at Burton (three-piece for £130), River Island (two-piece from £119.98) and Ted Baker (two-piece from £300). If you're looking for something more fitted you can't do any better than head to COS. Its taupe cotton suits are stylish, sleek and available in a palette of soft hues that won't have your friends thinking you're out to audit them (COS separates, blazers from £129; trousers from £55). 

Button up and be a man. Frugally. 


Jonathan Heaf is senior commissioning editor at British GQ

LIFESTYLE|WINE| Sarment Wine Taste Note

Sarment's prestige sommelier service helps members become wine connoisseurs. Hayley Ard investigates

Sarment 1Choosing the right wine can be challenging and perplexing. Selecting the bottle that will awaken the senses and complement the occasion takes skill and, as with so many forms of learning, a teacher is essential. Enter Sarment, the private sommelier service which aims to help clients share and look after wine and offers an indispensible guide to vintages new and old.

Since its launch in June 2009, Sarment has brought together four award-winning sommeliers to provide a round-the-clock wine service to a select few; this year, no more than 75 memberships will be released. Advice is available on subjects ranging from cellar management and entertaining to bidding at auction. 

Sarment 3Sarment was co-founded by Bertrand Faure Beaulieu, who began his career in banking and risk management. The company grew from Faure Beaulieu's long-held ambition to reshape the experience of discovering and understanding wine. Faure Beaulieu always knew what he wanted to offer: 'a truly personal service', plus 'unbiased advice and privileged access to wine and wine makers'. He also hoped to introduce a more dynamic way of buying wine.

It started, surprisingly, with a screw-capped pinot noir. When Philippe Messy, at the time the co-owner and head sommelier of L'Etranger, suggested the cork-free 1999 Felton Road Block 5 to Faure Beaulieu, he was 'more than intrigued'. This began an odyssey into a world outside his comfort zone of Bordeaux and Barolos. 'I had found a sommelier who was not only empathetic and exceptionally talented, but was not afraid to challenge me,' 

Faure Beaulieu recalls. Faure Beaulieu and Messy joined forces to create a service that made full use of Messy's insights and experience. At 23, Messy was the youngest sommelier of a restaurant that had gained three Michelin stars. Since then, he has devoted his career to the new and unexpected, working as an international buyer and helping to make award-winning vintages in Burgundy. He is joined at Sarment by three equally talented sommeliers, who share his passion for wine. Their combined level of knowledge is difficult to match. 

Sarment 2Part of Sarment's appeal lies in its very personal approach. On joining, members are individually paired with a sommelier whose personality and slant on wine complement their own. At a restaurant, a sommelier has moments, not hours, to conjure up the perfect recommendation; in contrast, Sarment is designed to foster an evolving relationship. The sommelier arranges a series of conversations and home visits to allow them to grasp fully each member's expectations and desires. 'You can be much more precise,' notes Messy. 

Members can also take the opportunity to expand their horizons via wine tours and private tastings. Others are drawn to the company's purchasing clout: as part of an exclusive buying group, members have unrestricted access to wine producers and a network of specialist transporters. For added security, delivery conditions are carefully monitored, using temperature tracking chips. 

Sarment 4Sarment is certainly not the first or the only brand to approach time-poor individuals who hope to expand their cellars and knowledge of wine. But current advisory services, even the most carefully run, tend to be influenced by the need to turn a profit. The Sarment business model, in contrast, is built around enjoyment, rather than sales. There are no ties to wine merchants or distributors, so members can rely on receiving unbiased advice, free from any commercial pressure. 'It's about a relationship and an experience,' concludes managing director Niels Sherry. Members can expect vintages from Sarment that will surprise and inspire. As sommelier Gearoid Devaney points out, 'A great wine makes your palate dance. It's like opening Pandora's box.'

Sarment+44 (0)20 7313 7802

HOMME|FASHION| FEATURE: BOY'S OWN

Masculine style can be tricky to manage. Trend analyst and fashion writer Simon O'Connell picks the best investment labels

You may not believe it when you see us swanking around fashion shows and launch parties in our gorgeous finery, but us fashion guys aren't all trussed up in expensive designer gear. Sure, we get the odd scarf or pair of shoes as a gift, but, unlike the fashionista girls, we - like civilians - have to buy our clothes. Sometimes even at full price. The horror.

So how do we manage to look so sartorially on trend? It's all about knowing where to look for bargains that the average guy isn't aware of: the labels that manage to combine cutting-edge design, hip reference points and good quality - at a decent price. Lyle

Since its first UK store opened in 2007, COS (Collection of Style) has been the fashion industry's favourite insider tip, with understated styling that seems to be straight out of the Prada/Jil SanderHugo Boss rule book. London's best-dressed men have all been caught stocking up here.

COS menswear this autumn reflects the times with a sober collection of wool coats and suits in a palette that runs from charcoal to steel grey, highlighted by knitwear and shirts in plum and green. This autumn sees COS open its fourth London store in Kensington High Street, and its first outside London, in Birmingham's Bullring.

YMC is another label better known by its acronym, which stands for You Must Create, and this year sees the opening of a store that features the label's full collection for the first time. YMC has been another fashion industry insider favourite for years, yet the label has never gained mainstream attention. If I had my way, that's how it would remain.YMC

This autumn, YMC is also in sombre mode. Its menswear collection harks back to the harsh but simpler times of early 20th century, when clothes were made to last. Inspired by workwear from the great depression of the 1930s, it features leather coats lined with military blankets and hunting jackets converted into knitted cardigans, while priest collars lend shirts an air of austerity.

Scottish knitwear label Lyle & Scott Vintage is another great brand, which this season has added trousers for the first time in slim-fit, dogtooth and Prince of Wales check styles. The range draws on 80s casual and preppy themes; plaid wool shirts and micro-check cotton shirts with tiny collars complement the classic sweaters. The Lyle & Scott Vintage accessories collection now includes hats, gloves and scarves branded with its trademark golden eagle. Fine Scottish lambswool appears in brights such as tartan scarlet, diver blue and gala pink, all influenced by pop art, alongside more traditional autumnal colours and neutrals.Mango

Hip young ladies know all about Mango's cut-price designer 'versions', but it's less well known that Mango's menswear is also rather groovy. Like many of the large chains, Mango has adopted a policy of bringing in young designers to produce for the mainstream, and this season is collaborating with US designerAdam Lippes on a tightly focused range inspired by 1970s New York style. Classic styles are blended with sportswear in a slimline collection that again features grey tones, highlighted with flashes of yellow and purple. Printed shirts and fine wool knits are mixed with suits and leather jackets in a collection for hipsters everywhere.

Not that we like to be called hipsters. So last season.

FASHION|EYESWEAR| Get Framed! A GQ Guide to Glasses

Large-framed glasses are back. Here's how to get the right pair—and how to pull them off

Who you calling nerdy? Large-framed glasses are back, with Johnny Depp and Jay-Z taking cues from Andy Warhol and Malcolm X. Here's what you need to know to find a pair that'll work for you.

HOMME|FASHION| Your Ultimate Winter Shirt-and-Tie Wardrobe

The 20 best shirts and ties of the season—and how to pair them


The key to building a wardrobe is maximum compatibility. The shirts and ties in this slideshow all go perfectly with each other. Click here to see how.

2010年3月30日 星期二

HOMME|FASHION| Viktor & Rolf Fall 2010

Viktor & Rolf Fall 2010
Location: Paris

The Vibe for Fall 2010: ThinkBreathless with Doc Martens. A mash-up of tailored suits combined with slouchy sweaters. In other words, that whole Belmondo thing, but with a slight update: wool coats, pleated pants, jeans rolled high, double-breasted suits. But Viktor & Rolf being Viktor & Rolf, they throw some glitter on the thighs of those suits.

Backstory

Designer: Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren
Owned By: Independent
Founded: 2003, Amsterdam 
History: Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren got their start in women's couture, which helps explain their eye for detail and taste for references. Various collections have been inspired by Hawaiian tourism, Vegas magicians, and Dutch naval history, and the duo were tapped to make the suit Rufus Wainwright wore during his 2006 Carnegie Hall tribute to Judy Garland. 
The Look: Clinical whimsy

HOMME|FASHION| Rick Owens Fall 2010

Rick Owens Fall 2010
Location: Paris

The Vibe for Fall 2010: Listen, you're either ready to board the Rick Owens rocket ship or you're not. But either way, you can still groove on the futuro-goth spectacle of it all—the leather tunics, the snakeskin stacked heels, the overcoats with Herman Munster shoulders, the fingerless, fur-lined Lorax gloves. And much of it even in colors other than black. Somewhere Ziggy Stardust and Dr. Who are placing their orders.

Backstory

Designer: Rick Owens
Founded: 1994, Los Angeles
Owned By: Private 
History: While still at design school, the Southern California-born Owens became known as a master pattern cutter. After establishing his own line (and winning the CFDA's Perry Ellis Award) in 2002, he moved to Paris to oversee the label, along with that of furrier Revillon. Today his name's synonymous with a kind of drapey, disheveled noir elegance. 
The Look: High-end goth, cut to move freely with the body—oddly athletic, and always dark-paletted

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