Location: Paris
The Vibe for Fall 2010:Imagine Vincent Gallo wandering home after an all-night bender and you get a sense of the Margiela aesthetic: the trousers a bit slouchy, the rock boots well-heeled, the topcoat riding over the shoulders like some mob boss. All in all, a look clearly not for the day-job guy, but for the man who understands that chic, precisely tailored pieces go great with bleary eyes, matted hair, and a pounding hangover.
Backstory
Designer: Martin Margiela
Founded: 1988, Paris
Owned By: Renzo Rosso, NEUF Group
History: The reclusive Belgian designer studied alongside Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester at Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts; worked briefly for Jean Paul Gaultier; and launched his deconstructivist, anti-iconic womenswear in 1988. Menswear followed 11 years later and has since attracted a cultlike following big enough to support boutiques (each painted almost entirely white) in several countries. In 2002, Diesel founder Renzo Rosso bought a majority stake in the house of Margiela, which launched a well-received home line in 2009.
The Look: High-concept fashion that (usually) keeps a low profile
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