Photos by Benoit Tessier/Reuters Looks from the Louis Vuitton show in Paris.
PARIS — It's the most Gallic label imaginable, but at Louis Vuitton, the designer Paul Helbers was in a New York state of mind. His eye-popping collection of sporty nylon jackets, short shorts and functional trousers was inspired by the aerodynamic outfits of bike messengers in Manhattan. Technical fabrics and sportswear are already a big trend, but Helbers amped things up with superbright oranges and yellows — not to mention beaded shoes, opalescent multihued shirts and messenger bags in the house's reinvented Taiga leather.
Photo by Benoit Tessier/Reuters, left, and Michel Euler/Associated Press Looks by Jean Paul Gaultier and Hugo.
Speaking of technical fabrics, mesh was prevalent at Jean Paul Gaultier, turning up in tank tops and as overlays in shirts and blazers; some leather jackets had laser-cut sections that produced a meshlike effect. Other designers, however, are on a more minimalist path. Bruno Pieters, who had his second runway show for Hugo, the fashion-forward line by Hugo Boss, stuck to his minimalist, sharp tailoring with cropped trousers and clean blazers with skinny lapels. But the standouts were the white and blue horizontally striped suits reminiscent of the Nouvelle Vague; Pieters said he was inspired by the seascapes of the German artist and photographer Wolfgang Uhlig. I, for one, will be Googling him.